Friday, September 11, 2009

Suburban Wilderness


Colorado Springs, a sprawling suburbia at the eastern feet of the staggering Rocky Mountains strikes as an image of a modern America which has robbed itself of community by worshipping privacy, space and the automobile. And yet, with a paradox which also rings true in a country which plays home to the incredibly relational, generous and visionary people that I have met in kitchens, overseas, on public transport and spread over the pages of paperbacks, it is a place where, for a short time, I found real community, love, grace, inspiration, support, reality and the stuff of a broken humanity all too often hidden from view by the space between us.

As I left Africa I revisited a thought which had been important to me as I left Ireland. God does not change. He is the same everywhere and so the One who has always proved to be reliable would and will continue to be so, no matter where I find myself. The richness of his person and the reach of his influence would not diminish. I thought about that as I lamented leaving a place where I had been inspired almost every day by a story or a child or an event or a landscape. I was struck by the subtle difference between two thoughts:

1 - "You have changed my life" A phrase so often repeated by departing visitors to our children. Massah you have changed who I am. Mary you have ensured that I will never be the same. Phillo you have altered me. Samuel you have made an indelible mark on my heart.

2 - "God has used you to change my life" A phrase less commonly uttered though perhaps implied. Ngardy, by introducing me to you God has inspired me to a different life. Angie, through our relationship God has called me to a changed way of being. Musu, God has used you to get to my core and go to work.

The difference is subtle but utter. Because if my children were the ones who affected a change in my life, that influence would lessen with every day we spend apart. But if that difference was instigated by an omnipresent Father who works through the people, things and situations around us, then the process does not have to ease off. There is no ending. There is just a journey. Because no destination has been reached and what was important was not left behind.

At a conference in America recently some of the great minds of American Christendom were asked to sum up the Christian experience in one word. This is kind of a futile exercise given the complexity of the experience to be described but it is food for thought at the very least and the word that they came up with was 'Wilderness'. It is a great word to suggest, albeit limited in the way that any single word must be, with a big problem being that it fails to speak to the 'abundance' of a life with God. What is sums up perfectly however is this reality - we are sojourners who have trouble in a world we are in but not of, stumbling in the darkness of our journey home with a fragment of the light. The Son of Man has no-where to lay his head. The journey continues.
















In Colorado God made it clear that he has a whole lot more to show me and many more questions to pose. I feel like I have always been someone who is comfortable with the questions which drift around our heads and our hearts, whether acknowledged or not. Indeed I can quickly be uncomfortable in the midst of people with too many answers. Colorado was a place of true fellowship, a word which the church has reduced to mean pot luck dinners, cinema trips and 'fun' of a shallower type, but which here looked liked people sharing the brokenness of their souls, the depth of their questions and the loneliness of their wilderness. Sharing and laughing and rejoicing and encouraging and crying together in a way which the Church has always had the capacity to do. It was the Church with its masks torn off and what was underneath was painfully beautiful. Being a part of that for a few days has left me with a dull ache for all that we could be.

Tuesday, September 08, 2009

I Saw What I Saw

When my friend talks about two year old Hawa the edges of his eyes redden. He talks of how he sat with her and her mother, how he prayed for them and how he desperately hoped that the care she was receiving would save her from the illness which had seen her tiny body all but completely shut down. He might also continue to explain that he thinks that maybe he avoided checking on Hawa on the morning of her death because of how uncomfortable that proximity to death made him feel. I wondered the same thing about myself earlier this year as I tried to comfort another friend as she wept after the death of a three year old girl called Fati.

Fati’s mother was not getting her daughter enough protein and when this happens a child’s body basically falls apart from the inside out. It is amazing to me how long a child seems to be able to last on so little nutrition but there is a point when they pass the point of no return. I was there when Fati died. I heard the wails of her mother who, in her despair, ran out the door of our clinic and up the road, howling. I watched as a man came for her body, putting her in a small cardboard box and securing it on the back of his bicycle before peddling off to the village where she would be buried. The whole scene was incredibly upsetting but I was struck by how uninvolved I had been in the story of this little family. Fati and her mother had been in our malnutrition clinic for weeks but I had not spent very much time with them at all. I had just been busy with other things but I also wondered if I had been on some level avoiding the malnutrition clinic because I was worried about being beaten down by the sadness of seeing babies in such a condition. I wondered, as my friend would later, if I was simply uncomfortable with the proximity of death.
I decided on that day that I would get ‘involved’ with whoever would come to the malnutrition clinic next. That I would spend time with them, encourage them if I could. That I would simply ‘be’ with them as they struggled together for life. I did not have to wait very long before I met Alice. She was two years old and arrived with her mother wearing what once would have been a pretty yellow dress. Uncle Charles invited me as he regularly did to come and take Alice’s picture for the clinic’s records and I obliged. As her mother undressed her, Uncle Charles and I saw Alice’s little body properly for the first time and my emotions took a deep breath. Uncle Charles’ face betrayed the slenderness of his hope as he went about the business of doing all he could. Alice sat there, her beautiful big eyes watching us without really seeming to see us, as we sat with her mother and tried to piece together some of the details of their story.

If I am remembering things properly, a day passed when I didn’t get a chance to check on Alice and so the first thing I did the following morning was go to the clinic. When I got there Uncle Charles was visibly upset and a little green cloth bundle lay on the bed beside his table. When a child is as malnourished as Alice, I was told, it's really important that she is kept warm. This had been explained to Alice’s mother, I was told, but when they were checked on that morning Alice was lying on the bed without covers and was dreadfully cold. I leaned forward to look at the bundle that was Alice. Her face was a pale, purple colour and I couldn’t get over how tiny she looked. Like she had been folded in half with her head shrunk to fit. After a moment or too Uncle Charles stepped out to see Alice’s mother and another patient and I was left alone with Alice. I brought my face close to hers and, as delicately as I could manage, stroked her cheek and a tiny hand with the back of my finger. She was deathly cold. I sat with her and prayed and watched her take the smallest of breaths.


Tiny breath.

*Pause*

Tiny breath.

*Longer pause*

Tiny breath.

*Longer pause*

Tiny breath.

I kept thinking, as the pauses between breaths lengthened, that this would be the last one. I kept thinking, okay it’s this time, this time she has breathed for the last time. But she would always breathe again. One more tiny time. And then another.

Eventually I went to the office and started to do some work. Five minutes later Uncle Charles came and let me know that Alice had died.

People ask me how I am ‘readjusting’ to life in what we’ll call the ‘West’. I am supposed to be going through a phase which sees me ‘get used to’ the riches I see all around me, to readjust to the idea that ‘this is how we do it’. The truth is I have gone from something like sheer poverty to the wealth of western normality before and so have already been through some of the thought processes that go along with that. It hasn’t been a shock to the core of my system. I don’t get angry every time I see someone wearing a nice outfit. I don’t think people should feel guilty about earning a comfortable amount of money or enjoying life. I am not calling everyone to sell everything they have and give it to the poor. Although someone did suggest that once. But I have seen what I have seen and there is no going back. And I wouldn't want to if I could.

In Colorado something like this idea was illustrated with play dough. Take the yellow piece of dough which represents the ‘you’ that was before you watched Alice die (Or the ‘you’ before you lived overseas). Take the blue piece that represents the ‘you’ that watched Alice die (Or the ‘you’ while you were overseas). Rub them together and you get a green from which the yellow cannot be pulled, from which the blue can never be separated. With this thought in mind I don’t think I will ever REadjust, if that means to go back to how I had once been adjusted. I will surely always look at issues of money and life and wealth and luxury and blessing and poverty through the eyes of someone who has sat beside a baby as she took some of her last breaths because she was born too poor to eat, too poor to grow, too poor to live. Well, of course, you will think to yourself. Of course you will. But, what does that mean? How will that change things? Those are questions that time will have to answer I guess.

In the meantime I will tell people I am readjusting just fine thanks very much...

To read a bit more about Fati, one of the girls mentioned in this blog, click here - http://www.cotni.org/articles/188

Saturday, September 05, 2009

Matters of Life and Death

Warning: This image contains graphic or objectionable content. Click here to view it.

Would you click?

A question that poses itself so often. Will I look? I remember it being discussed after Saddam was killed and it became known that the execution could be watched on-line. Did you look?

When I was confronted with this question as I looked through an on-line photo exhibition (Boston.com’s Big Picture) recommended to me by The American, I took a deep breath...

...and looked.

The pictures were of the recent Afghan elections and the explanation of the graphic content was as follows...

Afghan police carry the bodies of three suspected insurgents in the back of a truck after they were killed in a gunfight in Kabul, Wednesday, Aug. 19, 2009. Gunfire and explosions reverberated through the heart of the Afghan capital Wednesday on the eve of the presidential election after three militants with AK-47s rifles and hand grenades overran a bank. Police stormed the building and killed the three insurgents, officials said.

The picture itself wasn't didn't feel too hard for me to see. Perhaps, I wondered, this was the effect of being of a generation which is arguably the first to be so ‘raised’ on scenes of an explicitly violent nature, from Die Hard to The Last King of Scotland to The Passion of the Christ(I am deliberately referencing films that are deemed to have a perfectly ‘acceptable’ level of death and violence rather than the ‘video nasties’ only watched by a relatively small number of people). The same processes which saw so many of us watch the live unfolding of 9/11 like we were watching a movie quickly kick in. In 2001 it took me a few days to get what had happened. Not really until the stories of survivors and the families of victims began to make their way across the Atlantic, shaking reality into the motion picture, did I actually realise the horror. The language of war also keeps us at arms length from the truth. The dead are insurgents and militants, to some extent denying their humanity and giving their death a sense of justice. This idea was brought out in the very first philosophy class I had at Queens when our Professor showed us the Ride of the Valkyries scene from Apocalypse Now and began our discussion by commenting on the dehumanizing language of ‘dinks’. When they’re ‘dinks’ you can do what you want to them. When they are insurgents they deserve whatever they get. (They may well have been evil men who were killed in the process of doing evil things. I cannot comment on this specific incident.)

What this picture initially did in me however was spark a memory...

The pig’s name was Wilbur. The truth is that wasn’t his name but since I can’t remember his actual name that is the one I have just given him. He had been named to poke fun at the more squeamish amongst our group who were being teased about his pending slaughter. When the fateful morning came we made our way down to the farm with at least a hint of the kind of apprehensive excitement that compels perfectly rational individuals to watch films like Saw. There was a commotion in the pig pen as farmhands tried to get to grips with Wilbur, whose impressive size and strength were being bolstered by life’s ferocious desire to remain. Eventually superior numbers and opposable thumbs won out as Wilbur was tied up like a chicken and bundled out the door. As he writhed on the wet grass, a farmer stood on his large pink body as another kneeled on the back of his neck. The man with the knife moved forward and with one swift movement snuffed out Wilbur’s life.

Except that isn’t how it happened.

In actual fact, a somewhat blunt knife was hacked in behind Wilbur’s throat and, with a sawing action, wrestled forward. His throat having now been ripped from his neck, Wilbur lay there and fought for the life which was draining away. Blood of a surprisingly bright crimson oozed all around him and spluttered and gargled from the gap where his jugular once ran life to his lungs as his body heaved and gasped for air. Somehow, for an incredible length of time, life quite impossibly remained. But slowly and painfully, one deep pointless breath after another, Wilbur died. A farm hand had begun shaving his skin for butchering long before his final breath. We made our way back home thinking about life and death and dinner.

Two days later Uncle Q talked war and played us scenes from a documentary film called Cry Freetown. We watched the grainy footage of real conflict. A scene of post-shooting chaos as blood and terror ran on screen, bundling death and injury in to the backs of trucks. Another scene cut in. What looked like soldiers lined up a group of young men against a backdrop of green bush. This was an execution and those about to die were given a last cigarette to enjoy. Aim was taken. Shots were fired. The bodies fell down. Initially the details of the story were unknown. Were these RUF rebels being killed? Were they ‘insurgents’, ‘dinks’? Was justice being done? Either someone asked him or Uncle Q offered the information that those killed were students who had protested the AFRC coup in their city, young men who had made too much noise about the removal of democracy and the rule of law, or at the very least imperfect attempts at those concepts. As I tried to process that thought the cameraman had moved on to a close up shot of one of those who had just fallen. Grainy blood of a dark crimson oozed all around him and spluttered and gargled from the gap where his jugular once ran life to his lungs as his body heaved and gasped for air. Somehow, for an incredible length of time, life quite impossibly remained. But slowly and painfully, one deeply pointless breath after another, a young man would die.

The deaths of Wilbur and this young Sierra Leonean man cut together in my mind like those of Kurtz and the water buffalo in another scene from Apocalypse Now. And I was struck by how strong our will to survive is, how that instinct is imprinted on our every cell. I often noted the human body’s resilience in Sierra Leone when tiny, desperately malnourished babies and kids would find their way to our clinic. All too often these little lives faded away but I was regularly struck by how much our bodies can take and how little they can survive with, even if that life is left hanging by a thread. It is only one side of the coin of course with on other occasions the utter fragility of life shocking its way to the fore. And of course what the young student and Wilbur were up against were people whose desire to kill them was as strong as their bodies’ attempts to survive and I am left thinking of another picture from boston.com. It is a view of Hiroshima taken shortly after The Bomb was dropped, one mile from the sight of the actual explosion. This blast is believed to have killed about 70,000 people immediately with perhaps another 70,000 dying from resulting injuries and effects in the years that followed. Utter, inhuman destruction wielded not on behalf of a psychotic despot but rather the American people. The land of the free. The tolerant. The democratic. The rational. A time of war when the end far outweighed the means in the minds of decision makers. A time when the language and logic and hate of war had dehumanised the civilians of whole cities all over the world. An incredible time, yes, but comments of ‘Never Again’ make liars of us.



(U.S. National Archives)

Afghanistan has been ripped from seam to seam by war and oppression and I just can’t imagine. This goes a hundred fold for Afghan nationals but I am regularly bowled over by the thought of American and British troops there fighting the questions that must surely haunt – How did we get here? Why are we dying for this chaos? Is it going to get better? And I think about the language they use, and the things they cling to, to make sense of the horror or to simply survive it. And I think of the young men whose dead legs hung out of the back of a pickup truck which was photographed as it rolled along and the hows and whys and whos and ifs of the ‘graphic content’ that is their death. And I think of the utter humanity of an Afghan girl in another picture, holding a small puppy with the same innocent pleasure of any child of her age anywhere in the world, the way I had seen our children in Sierra Leone hold their puppies a hundred times. For me she was the equivalent of the 9/11 relatives’ stories that filtered through as the days went by. She shook the scene and allowed what was real to feel like it, to burst into tragic life and death.


(AP Photo/Dima Gavrysh)

---

“Smell that? Do you smell that? Napalm, son. Nothing else in the world smells like that. I love the smell of napalm in the morning. You know one time we had a hill bombed…for twelve hours. And when it was all over I walked up. We didn’t find one of ‘em. Not one stinkin’ dink body. The smell. You know that gasoline smell. The whole hill. It smelled like…victory.”
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